GiantSchnauzer(GiantSchnauze), alias large Schnauzer, originated in Germany, originated in the 15th century, From the basic appearance, the giant schnauzer is simply a standard schnauzer The enlarged version of (detailed introduction), except for the body shape, the rest of the length is very similar.

The Giant Schnauzer is the result of a cross between a Rough Cattle Dog and a Miniature Schnauzer. A healthy and dependable temperament, a rough appearance, and thick shag that can cope with all climates make this The breed has become a working dog with excellent strength and stamina for one or more purposes.

Chinese name: Giant Schnauzer

English name: GiantSchnauze

Alternative name: Giant   Schnauzer

Kingdom: Animalia

Department: Chordate

Subphylum: Vertebrate subphylum

Class: Mammalia

Subclass: Euzoea Class

Order: Carnivora

Suborder: Canines

Family: Canidae

Subfamily: Canine subfamily

Genus: Canis

Origin: Germany

Origin: 15th century

GiantSchnauzer The personalities of the standard and miniature Schnauzers are very similar. They not only have a cool and handsome appearance, but also have a rigid personality. If they are not trained at a young age, they will become aggressive.

Giant Schnauzer with family Serious, loyal, dedicated, hostile to people of unknown origin, known as the dog that can please the family the most, its willingness to learn is very high, and its acceptance of skill training is also quite high. Outgoing and lively, he has a lively expression and an athletic physique.

The Giant Schnauzer has an independent personality and can become aggressive if not trained as a puppy. In general, the Schnauzer has a high self-worth and gives the impression that he knows how to handle a situation, so it's best to trust his instincts and let him handle it on his own.

Strong, energetic, and agile, with an almost oblong body. Lively, composed, alert, intelligent, brave, loyal, docile. The rugged shape, curly wire coat, and trustworthy character make the Giant Schnauzer not only the most useful and hard-working working dog, but one of the best companion dogs to keep.

More and more people are putting giant Schnauzers are kept indoors, but can only move freely indoors when the owner's family is with them . Dangers can occur when out or at night, so be sure to teach it (re-cage).

In terms of diet, high-quality dog food should be given at a fixed time, and it must not be allowed to share the human diet.

Most of the dogs are outdoors, so they can be trained to excrete outdoors. In puppyhood, it can be hard to train it to poop, but even if it's housed in an apartment, take it outside to poop. People in dual-income households may have to go out for a walk at night, leaving the dog's skin vulnerable. Therefore, pay more attention to taking it out for sunbathing.

No shedding, no body odor (if you don't take a bath, it must smell), It is close to people, but it still depends on the character of the host.

GiantSchnauzer is the largest of the three Schnauzers, so the daily food intake should be higher than the other two breeds. When it is time to feed the Schnauzer, it must be scientifically raised according to the living habits and physical characteristics of the Schnauzer. In terms of diet, give high-quality dog food at set times, and never let it share a human diet. Feeding a giant schnauzer has three small points to pay attention to.

First, how much is appropriate to eat

For The dog only needs to be 70% full to eat. Don’t overdo it, let it lick the bowl and lick it proudly; eat too much and run and jump after the meal, it’s easy to stay intact. Spit out. Puppies kept in cages all year round, eating is their rare entertainment, so they will be greedy like a starved block, don't be fooled by them, thinking they are really hungry. But if you don't eat enough, don't have enough activity, and don't have good excretion, you may be really sick. It's best to take it to the doctor. When you want to replace the dog's food, don't change it all at once, mix half of the new food every time, try it for two or three days, gradually increase the new amount, and use the new one after a week. In this way, the dog's digestive system can adapt to it, otherwise it is easy to have diarrhea.

Many parents think that dogs want to chew on bones. In fact, chewing on bones can easily block the dog's intestines, making it constipated, causing vomiting and poor appetite. Especially chicken bones must not be used, because they are small and brittle, it is easy to block the esophagus and pierce the bones and intestines. When feeding, be sure to give enough water at the same time, do not have to use distilled water, boiled water, the dog's stomach does not care about these. In short, when feeding regularly, quantitatively, and at a fixed point, the puppy is happy and the whole family is happy.

Second, the number and time of feeding

The number of feedings per day is roughly as follows: after weaning to three months old: three to four times; three To six months old: two to three times; six months to one year old: two times; over one year old: one to two times.

The time of feeding can match your work and rest time, but it is not enough to feed the dog, and also consider the time for walking the dog after meals and the time for taking a meal, urinating, cleaning the bedpan, and washing dishes. Wash the dishes immediately after meals, so that the residue does not attract mice, cockroaches, ants, or the leftover food is spoiled by the sun and rain. Remove the bowl at the same time, lest it get bored and play with the bowl or even bite it. As for how much to feed, it is usually given according to the instructions, and then adjusted according to whether there is any leftover from the last meal.

Third, types of dog food

Dog food mainly includes dry food and canned food. Stinky biscuits, beef jerky, etc. The main nutritional components of various brands are similar, the price is high, and there are special food formulas for various ages and Variety, there are different considerations, which can be compared in advance.

According to the growing age, let the dog eat the dog food that is suitable for him. Puppies eat puppies, adult dogs eat adult dogs, old dogs eat old dogs, fat dogs eat fat dogs, don't confuse them, so as not to be too fat or too thin. The nutritional content of dry food is relatively stable and average, and the dog can clear the dental calculus and relieve itching from chewing. However, if there is a problem of secreting stones, try to avoid dry food unless it is a prescription diet for stones.

The nutritional content of canned food varies according to the price. High-priced canned food uses better materials; low-priced canned food is mostly uncrushed internal organs. The disadvantage is that there is a lot of meat, the odor in the defecation is strong, and it is easy to grow calculus after eating for a long time.

Dry food is not as tasty as canned food, but it is easy to digest and absorb, and the bowel movements are not so smelly. Treats can be used for raw training and this training, when the dog does it right as a prize. Parents should not give the dog snacks often, it will easily spoil its appetite. Chewing gum, ice cream, cakes and other desserts should be avoided. After eating too many desserts, the biggest problem is that the dog has no appetite for the main meal.

GiantSchnauzer and Standard Schnauzer is very similar and, in general appearance, is a replica of a large, powerful Standard Schnauzer, just with a thicker outline. Energetic and solidly constructed. The body is nearly square in height and length, lively, strong and muscular. Temperament includes enthusiasm and alertness; clever and dependable; composed, alert, courageous, easily trainable, very loyal to family, playful, amiable when quiet; dominant when alert. A healthy and dependable temperament, a rough appearance, and thick bristles that can cope with all climates make this Breeds become working dogs with excellent strength and stamina for one or more purposes.

Head

Sturdy, rectangular in appearance, and very long; slightly narrowing from ear to eye to nose. The overall length is approximately half the length of the back (from withers to base of tail). The head matches the gender and overall structure. The outline of the muzzle is parallel to the outline of the skull; the stop is slight and the eyebrows are prominent.

Head (from posterior occiput to stop): moderate width between ears, not very prominent posterior occipital. The top of the head is flat; there are no wrinkles.

Cheks: Flat cheeks, but with well-developed masseter and muscles; no "cheeky" phenomenon affecting the rectangular appearance of the head (even beard).

Muzzle: Strong, filling the space below the eyes; parallel to the outline of the skull and of equal length; blunt wedge at the end. Nose large, black, plump; lips tight, non-overlapping, black.

Bite: Full and healthy white teeth (6/6 incisors, 2/2 canines, 8/8 premolars, 4/6 molars), scissors bite. The jaws are powerful and well-structured.

Disqualification: Upper jaw protruding bite or lower jaw protruding bite. Ears: If the ears are clipped, the shape and length of the sharp corners should be the same, the position on the head should be symmetrical and the length should not be too exaggerated. Ears are set high and erect, and the line extending from the inner edge to the inner edge of the other ear is as close to a small bell as possible. If not clipped, the ears are V-shaped, button ears, of medium length and thickness, set high and folded from high to the head.

Eyes: Medium in size, dark brown, deep set. The eyes are oval in shape, with sharp eyes and tight lids. Eyebrows are not so long that they interfere with vision or cover the eyes.

Neck: Strong, gracefully curved, of medium length, neatly articulated with shoulders, with tight throat skin; in harmony with overall height and length.

Body

Compact, strong, short hit, strong, very powerful and agile. The highest point of the body is the withers, and the height to the ground is equal to the length of the body (distance from sternum to hip). The loins are well muscled and as short as possible in a compact body.

Forequarters

Forequarters has a flat, slightly sloping shoulders and high withers. The forelegs are straight, vertical from any angle, and the ankles are strong and well-boned. The forelegs are deeply separated from the back of the chest, and there is no sign of atrophy in the front chest. Keep your elbows close to your body, with the tip of your elbow straight back. Chest: Medium in width, ribs well expanded, not barrel chest, oval in longitudinal section. The sternum is clearly recognizable, and the forechest is strong; the chest is deep to the elbows, and gradually draws back and joins the raised abdomen. The expansion of the ribs begins with the first rib and gradually spreads out, allowing free movement of the elbows close to the body. Shoulders: Sloping shoulder blades, well muscled and flat. The shoulder blades are properly angled back so that the rounded upper ends of the shoulder blades are almost on the same vertical line as the elbows. The lower part of the scapula is sloping forward to join the forearm at an almost right angle that gives the forelegs maximum freedom of extension without any adhesion or reluctance. Both the shoulder blades and the forearm bones are long enough to give the chest enough depth.

Back

Short, straight, strong and sturdy.

Tail

The height of the base of the tail is moderate, when excited, the tail is raised upwards, at the second caudal vertebra (up to no more than the third caudal vertebra) The position of the tail is docked (when mature, the length of the tail is about 3 to 4.5 inches).

Hindquarters

The hindquarters are well muscled and balanced with the forequarters; the first thighs are sloping, well angled at the knees, the second The thighs are roughly parallel to the elongated line of the neck, short in length from hock to paw, perpendicular to the ground when the dog is standing naturally, and parallel to each other when viewed from behind. The hindquarters are not overly exaggerated or higher than the withers. The buttocks are full and slightly rounded. Feet: Moderately arched, compact cat feet, neither turned in nor out, with thick hard pads, black toenails. Dewclaws: If the hind limbs have dewclaws, they must be removed; if the forelimbs have dewclaws, they can be removed or retained.

Gait

The movement was judged by looking at the trot. The gait should be extended, smooth and powerful, with good front extension and strong hindquarters drive. The forelegs and hindlimbs are neither turned in nor out. As speed increases, the correct structure will keep the dog moving in a straight line with a strong, stable and flat rear.

Coat

Hard setae, very dense; with a soft undercoat and a coarse coat that, when viewed against the texture of the hair, is either Not smooth or level. Coarse hair on top of the head, with coarse beards and eyebrows, typical of Schnauzers.

Color

Pure black or salt and pepper. Black: True solid black, small white markings on the chest are permitted, all other markings are disqualifying. Salt and pepper: The outer coat is a combination of hairs (white with black or black with white), and some black or white hair that looks grey. IDEAL COLOR: Intensely pigmented, medium gray (pepper) uniform throughout, with gray undercoat. Colors allowed: "Pepper" in varying shades from dark iron grey to silver grey. Each color of salt and pepper should have a dark "mask" to emphasize the expression; the "mask" color coordinates with the body color. Eyebrows, whiskers, cheeks, throat, chest, legs, and under the tail are lighter in color, but are also included in the "pepper color". Marked is a disqualification.

Height

Male should be 25.5 to 27.5 inches tall at the withers, and females should be 23.5 to 25.5 inches tall. Medium size is best. Body size is less of a priority than type, proportions, structure, temperament, etc. Generally, a dog that is too small is not needed because it lacks strength; nor a dog that is too large, because it lacks agility and mobility, and is not suitable for a good working dog.