Field Terrier gives the impression of a noble variety, characteristic and elegant, in proportion to the overall size. Expression: Deep, gentle, and intelligent. Eyes: Almond-shaped, open, medium in size; set slightly wide and deep; dark hazel to dark brown in color. Eyelids are tight, nictitating membrane not visible; eye rims are the same color as the nose. Ears: Slightly long (ends extending to muzzle) and broad. Set slightly below eye level; drooping, hanging close to head; rounded and heavily feathered. The ears are slightly thicker, softer, and slightly rounded at the tips. Skull: The top (back) is slightly wider than where the eyebrows are, and the sides are slightly arched; the sides and cheeks are straight and neat.

Breed Name: Field Spaniel

English Name: Field Spaniel

Body Type: Medium

Breed Category: Single Hound

History:

Original in England.

Originated in the 19th century.

After branching from the Cork in 1892, it was mixed with the Sussex Spaniel, which was damaged in both blood and reputation for a while, threatening the survival of the breed.

Although well-loved, it never did well at dog shows.

Well-   behaved, sensitive, lovable, independent and intelligent, it has a very close friendship with humans. When meeting for the first time, there may be reservations. Any display of shyness, timidity, or aggression is a serious flaw.

Field Terriers are very popular for their smart, lively, petite, playful, lovable, shedding, body odor-free properties, making them ideal for urban households. Since the introduction of this breed in China is not very long, the number of field beagle dogs is not very large, especially the high quality field beagle dogs are limited. Therefore, the domestic field beagle market is generally in short supply.

At present, the price of field beagle in China is showing an upward trend. The market price of female field beagle with slightly better quality is more than 10,000 yuan, and the male field beagle is more than 5,000 yuan. High-quality female field terriers sell for between 20,000 and 50,000, and male dogs around 30,000. Moreover, it is currently difficult to find a good bitch and one dog. Therefore, in the next three to five years, the market demand for field terriers will continue to rise, and the price of racing dogs will also rise steadily, and there will be no major slip.

The field beagle is different from other dog breeds in terms of body size and function, so it is different from other breeds in feeding managementDogs are also slightly different.

Management at the beginning of the house:

The dog has just arrived in a strange environment, and there is a kind of nervousness in his heart, so in order to let the dog To relax, the owner must prepare a field demon that allows the dog to rest peacefully. The owner can cut a dog house for the dog with a cardboard box, or buy a dog house in the market; of course, it is best to buy ready-made, because the material, style and size can be selected, and you can definitely choose You feel the dog will be most comfortable in the dog house.

Prepare a comfortable environment for your dog:

Field Terriers belong to Small dogs, usually you can choose a dog house for small dogs. When the dog house is brought home, keep it where the family can see it at all times, and keep it away from dangerous areas of the home.

Eating utensils are used to eat, and drinking utensils are used to drink water. Usually pet stores will have various food bowls and various drinking utensils. I like to buy, but it should be noted that the mouth of the food bowl and drinking utensils should not be too deep, otherwise these short-mouthed field terriers will feel extremely inconvenient to eat and drink; in fact, as long as the shape and material permit, human-specific food utensils are also Yes, the small pottery utensils with large bottom area, stable shape and thick texture are the most suitable for dog food and drinking utensils.

A small field terrier will be potty trained on his first day home, so be sure to have the toilet ready first. It is best to use a plastic material, such as a dish-shaped dog toilet. Put a pet pad inside to teach it to urinate here, and it can understand the difference between a toilet and a sleeping bed.

Things to keep in mind when bringing puppies home:

When the owner is ready to welcome the puppies home, you can choose Bring the puppy home before noon one day. Taking a puppy out of a familiar environment, suddenly separated from the same litter or parent he has been living with, and into a completely unfamiliar environment can be very stressful. It would make him even more uneasy if he arrived at his new home after dark.

When you want to take it home, you can check with the original owner whether the puppy has a sleeping towel; if there is, bring it back together. Their original eating habits or health status, of course, also ask clearly. Also, remember to ask what vaccinations the puppy has received? When will the pedigree certificate be obtained?

Because the puppy is prone to motion sickness, do not eat breakfast on the day you want to bring it home. To be cautious, take motion sickness pills an hour before departure. When getting in the car, wrap the puppy in a towel, hold it gently on your lap, and prepare a plastic bag or newspaper to prevent the dog from vomiting or urinating suddenly. When you get home, let it go to the bed to rest well, and don't rush to hold it or touch it later, lest it get too nervous and upset the stomach. You only need to feed half of your food for the day; if you don't want to eat, you can just drink water. It's better to wait for it to sleep and calm down, and take good care of it when it wants to get close to you.

Under normal circumstances, a litter of puppies is breast-feeding from the mother dog to 3-5 weeks of age. After 3 weeks of age, some milk or breast milk can be placed in a dish to let the puppies learn to lick food from the dish to supplement nutrition. This can avoid Undernutrition hinders development and reduces the burden on bitches.

Weaning from the bitch:

When the puppies are nearly three weeks old, they can start to be given the nursery food, and the commercialized nursery food can be used according to the instructions. It can also be prepared by yourself. The method is to add milk and baby cereals and mix them into a plate. Take the puppy to the plate and put some in the mouth of the puppy with your fingers. Twice a day, the puppy will eat on its own. When giving the puppies, in some cases, the bitch must be taken away to prevent the bitch from interfering with the feeding of the puppies. When the puppy is used to eating from the plate, the feeding amount can be gradually increased and increased to three or four times a day, and then meat can be given. If fresh meat is given (due to lack of calcium in meat), some bone meal should be added to maintain nutritional balance. Use various brands of canned puppy food in rotation. Canned meat for adult dogs is also better than fresh meat, but you still need to add some bone meal.

The puppies grow rapidly and should be fed several times a day than the adult dog. If the mother dog has sufficient milk and is in good breastfeeding condition, do not rush to wean, but if it is 5 weeks old, the above should be followed. Steps to weaning, 6-week-old puppies no longer need bitches to breastfeed.

Feeding of developing adult dogs:

When puppies reach 12 weeks of age, they will be fed three times a day until they are 6 months old, and then reduced to two meals a day. By 9 months of age, one or two meals a day can be maintained thereafter, depending on the individual or the environment.

In general, small dogs (especially toy dogs) It is advisable to eat two meals a day.

Constipation:

Constipation is easy to occur when puppies are fed breastmilk substitutes. You can use a glass rod or a thermometer to apply Vaseline or mineral oil to the anus to lubricate the fecal pellets. Add a drop of mineral oil or sunflower oil to the fed formula until the constipation improves. If the constipation does not improve for more than one day, refer to the veterinarian.

Veterinary care for puppies:

Each puppy needs vaccinations, deworming, dental checkups and health checks, please keep in touch with your veterinarian.

First meal:

The puppies at this time may eat four meals a day, and the first meal is only given two-thirds of the normal amount. The puppy may be excited, nervous or motion sick. Keep your distance when puppies eat, especially nervous puppies.

Meet other pets:

Be very careful when puppies meet other pets for the first time. The animal is mainly present and aggressive animals (especially male dogs) will be angry with new animals. Always pay attention to the safety of your puppy during the first week. Even a friendly male dog can injure puppies in rough play, socialization is required. Strengthen the training of puppies to learn the good behavior of other adult dogs. As the dog grows, it establishes its social rank and dominance. When two bitches are together, they do not grab dominance. Larger bitches have higher rank and are younger when two male dogs are together. The male dog will constantly challenge the dominance of the other male dog, and fights may also occur.

Body Type:

Symmetry of each part Sex is his essence. Size: A mature male is about 18 inches tall at the shoulder; a mature female is about 17 inches tall. Errors within 1 inch are acceptable. Proportion: A very well-proportioned dog with body length slightly greater than withers height, with a body length to wither height ratio of approximately 7:6 (body length is measured horizontally from the foremost point of the shoulder blade to the last point of the rump). Physique: Solid structure, moderate bone mass, smooth and firm muscles.

Head:

It gives the impression of a noble variety, characteristic and elegant, in proportion to the overall size. Expression: Deep, gentle, and intelligent. Eyes: Almond-shaped, open, medium in size; set slightly wide and deep; dark hazel to dark brown in color. Eyelids are tight, nictitating membrane not visible; eye rims are the same color as the nose. Ears: Slightly long (ends extending to muzzle) and broad. Set slightly below eye level; drooping, hanging close to head; rounded and heavily feathered. The ears are slightly thicker, softer, and slightly rounded at the tips. Skull: The top (back) is slightly wider than where the eyebrows are, and the sides are slightly arched; the sides and cheeks are straight and neat. Posterior occipital bone distinct and round. The brow bone is slightly raised and the stop is moderate, but the brows are very well defined. The face appears sculpted under the eyes. Muzzle: Strong, long and sloping, neither elongated nor boxy. The bridge of the nose is straight, slightly deviating from the line parallel to the outline of the skull, towards the tip of the nose, sloping slightly downward. In profile, the jawline is curved to join the throat. The mouth appears horizontal. Nose: Large, tender and well developed, with open nostrils. The position is like an extension of the muzzle. Color: Solid, from light brown to dark brown or black, to match coat color. Lips: Close, neat, fairly deep, covering the chin but not drooping. Teeth: Scissors bite or pincer bite, complete dentition, scissors bite is preferred.

Neck, Topline, Body:

Neck: Long, strong, muscular, slightly arched, neat and well integrated with the shoulder blades. Topline: Neck sloping and smoothly blending into withers; back level, muscular, firm and strong. The croup is short and gradually rounded. The forechest is prominent and fleshy, and the depth of the thorax is approximately equal to the distance of the forelegs from the elbow to the ground. The ribs are long and extend to the short waist. Ribs are oval, well supported, and curve towards a firm loin. Loin: Short, strong and deep, with slight or no lift. Tail: Set low, on the curve of the rump, below the level of the back, and sloping naturally downwards. A docked tail is preferred, but a natural tail is acceptable. Whether the tail is docked or not, it must be kept in proportion to the whole.

Forequarters:

Scapula sloping. The upper arms are well set; the elbows are just below the withers, neither turned in nor out. Bones are flat. The forelegs are straight and well boned (up to the feet). The flanks are moderately sloping but strong. Dewclaws can be removed. Feet facing forward, large, round and webbed. The toes are well arched and compact, and the pads are thick.

Hindquarters:

Strong and powerful; knees and hocks only moderately flexed. The hocks are set low; the flanks are relatively short, strong, and appear parallel to each other when viewed from behind. The hips are slightly broad and muscular; the first thigh is broad and powerful; the second thigh is muscular. The bones are coordinated with the forelimbs. No dewclaws.

Coat:

Single coat; medium length; flat or slightly wavy, silky, and shiny; dense and waterproof . Moderate, setter-like feathering is present on the chest, underbelly, back of legs, buttocks, and perhaps on the second thigh and under the tail. The part of the f-bone to the ground looks neat. The hair between the toes is short and soft. The excess coat, the cotton-like texture, and in short, the inappropriateness of the field work are all faults. Limited trimming can improve his natural appearance. Gross defects or lack of coat are not as severe as structural defects.

Color:

Black, liver, golden liver or different shades of these colors, any intensity (dark or light) will do; Single color or double color. The two-tone must be mixed with some white bits. Brown spots in the above colors are acceptable, as are other breeds with brown spots. White is allowed on the throat, chest, bottom of the chest, and may be a neat patch of color, or it may be a spot or a variegated color on a solid-colored dog.

Gait:

Head held alertly, neither too high nor too low (affecting movement and gait). Starting from the shoulder blades, well stretched forward, combined with the strong drive of the hindquarters, showing a particularly relaxed, long, low and solemn stride. Viewed from the front or back, the movements of the elbows and hocks are parallel to each other. The movement of the legs is straight, slightly tucked in as the speed increases. In motion, the tail is flush or slightly lowered with the back, with a wagging motion. The position of the tail higher than the back is wrong. Viewed from the side, the action is straight and neat, with no energy-wasting moves. Hyperextension or single trajectory is wrong. The Field Hound should show his natural speed, with very good stamina, and is better suited to loosening the leash so that his movements can be better assessed.

Temperament:

Unusually well-behaved, sensitive, lovable, independent and intelligent, very close to human friendship. When meeting for the first time, there may be reservations. Any display of shyness, timidity, or aggression is a serious flaw.