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Chinemys reevesii

2022-04-17 / 992 Read

  Alias           GoldTurtle, tortoise, mud turtle, mountain tortoise    

  English name           Chinemys reevesii    

  Weight           (Male) 250g (Female) 15-400g    

  Length           (back armor) 10-12cm    

  Origin             Southeast Guangxi, South Guizhou, Japan, Brazil and North Korea       

Stickness:  Desire :  
Hair loss:  Body Odor:  
Beauty Frequency:  Kids Friendly:  
opposite Friendly people:  Animal Friendly:  
Amount of exercise:  Trainability:  
saliva level:  Cold Hardiness:  
Heat Resistance:City Fitness :  

Brazilian turtle


1. Characteristics and habits of red-eared tortoises

The red-eared tortoise, because of its pair of pairs on the back of its head Thick red stripes, hence the name. The Chinese name is red-eared turtle, the Latin name is Trachemys scripta elegans, and the English name is Red-slider. Excellent variety. Native to South America, it has been introduced to my country in recent years.

1. Morphological characteristics

The head, neck, limbs, and tail of the red-eared turtle are covered with yellow-green mosaic stripes of uneven thickness, and the top of the head There are 2 thick red stripes on the sides. The cornea of the eye is green with a black spot in the center. The kiss is blunt. There are yellow-green inlaid and irregular spots in the center of each scutellum of the carapace and plastron, and the patterns of each turtle are different. The fingers and toes are webbed. The tail is moderate.

2. Ecological habits

The red-eared turtle has a lively temperament, which is more active and active than any domestic freshwater turtle. It is sensitive to the sound and vibration of the water, and once frightened, it dives into the water. Red-eared turtles are aquatic turtles and like to live in clear ponds. At noon, they like to lie on the shore and dry their shells. The rest of the time floats on the water to rest or wander in the water. The activity of the red-eared turtle changes with the change of the ambient temperature. The optimum temperature is 20--32°C, hibernation is below 11°C, and deep hibernation is below 6°C.

The red-eared tortoise has a habit of basking in the sun, but not too long. The outdoor box cannot be placed in a place with long-term direct sunlight, and it must be shaded. If you raise turtles indoors, you can install a UV lamp at a distance of 30CM from the turtle box for 15-20 minutes a day. Pay attention to the escape of the turtle in the box. It is best to add a net cover. In winter, the water temperature drops to make it hibernate. If possible in summer, the turtle can be taken out to bask in the sun during the day and taken back at night.

3. Diet

The red-eared turtle is an omnivorous animal. It is a wild turtle in nature, mostly carnivorous. Under artificial feeding conditions, they like to eat animal bait, such as fish, pork, animal offal, mussels, snails and blood worms (chironomid larvae), red worms (water earthworms), Tenebrio molitor (bread worms), fly maggots, etc. . Also eat vegetables, rice, fruits and other plants. Feed small fish, shrimp, liver, red worms, cockroaches, etc. The feeding material should be put in the water, but do not put pebbles in the water, so as to prevent the feed from rotting in the stone crevices and affecting the water quality. Red-eared turtles have no selective feeding time, and eat both day and night. In the state of starvation, there is snatch behavior, and the phenomenon of eating large and small occurs.

4. Identification of males and females

There is no significant difference between males and females in appearance color, but there is a big difference in body weight. Gender can be identified when females weigh 1000 grams and males reach 250 grams. Females can weigh up to 1000--2000 grams, with flat plastrons, and the cloacal hole in the back edge of the carapace; males weigh no more than 500 grams, with longer claws and tails, and the cloacal hole is located on the back. The tail beyond the rear edge of the nail.

[Editor's Comment]

Nowadays, many people like to keep cute Brazilian turtles. Although Brazilian turtles are easier to raise, there is a disadvantage: they eat a lot and excrete more quickly. In addition, the indoor temperature is high, and the remaining feed and feces are easily corrupted, so the water is always smelly. Only two days after changing the water, it turned into a pool of muddy soup, and even the Brazilian turtle was almost invisible. If there is enough light, green algae will grow. In particular, some people use relatively small glass tanks or washbasins to raise them. If they are not careful, they will stink.

The easiest way to fix this is to change the water completely. All dirty water is generally replaced four hours after feeding. When changing the water, first take out the turtle and put it in the bucket. At the same time, it is best to use a brush to brush the four walls and bottom of the container, and then pour in clean water with a suitable temperature and then put the turtle back into the water. It's important to note that not all species of swamp or water turtles are accustomed to a complete water change, but the Brazilian turtle quickly gets used to the practice and the disturbance it causes. After a complete water change, it may be possible to induce the turtle to speed up the excretion of feces in the intestines, making the freshly changed water dirty again. So if necessary, it is best to change the water for the Brazilian turtle before going to bed at night. Although it feels a bit cumbersome to do so, it can guarantee the water quality.  


2. Prevention and control of red-eared turtle diseases

1. Prevention of turtle diseases The occurrence of the disease is generally related to the environment, the turtle body itself, feed, and pathogens.

Maintaining a good environment, such as water quality that meets breeding requirements, quiet surroundings, and reasonable and scientific turtle habitat, can reduce the occurrence of turtle diseases. In the same way, when introducing seeds, plant seeds nearby, avoid long-distance transportation, and avoid importing seeds from the market or from farmers who are unfamiliar with the current breeding situation. Cutting off the way the pathogen spreads to healthy turtles, etc., can all play a preventive role.

2. Treatment

(1), white eye disease.

Etiology: Due to the high density of artificial breeding, which causes trauma or deterioration of water quality, the juvenile and young turtles are more susceptible to white eye disease. Symptoms: The eyes of the diseased turtle are inflamed and congested, gradually turning gray and swollen, the cornea and surrounding areas are eroded due to inflammation, and the outside of the eyeball is covered by a layer of white secretions. After the onset of the tortoise, the forelimbs are often used to rub the eyes, and they cannot eat food. Prevention and control methods: strengthen feeding and management, and focus on disinfection. Strictly disinfect turtles and turtle-raising water and tableware; strengthen the nutritional content of turtle feed and enhance turtle disease resistance. The diseased turtle was soaked in 40ppm erythromycin solution for 60 minutes; the eye of the diseased turtle was smeared with chlortetracycline eye ointment.

(2), gastroenteritis.

Etiology: Most of the turtles are sick due to the deterioration of feed or the contamination of food utensils and water by Escherichia coli and other bacteria. Symptoms: The diseased tortoise has dull eyes, no luster, thin body, does not like to crawl, likes to drink water, has diarrhea, and has snot-like feces. Prevention and control methods: improve water quality, keep water fresh, feed fresh feed, and strictly disinfect tableware. The diseased turtles were soaked in 30ppm erythromycin solution for 60 minutes, then mixed with appropriate amount of oxytetracycline in the feed to feed the diseased turtles.

(3), Nail rot.

Etiology: After the carapace is damaged, bacteria invade the wound and cause the carapace to rot. Symptoms: The surface carapace rots, or a cave is formed or even muscles are visible, no food, and little movement. Control method: soak the diseased turtle with 40ppm potassium permanganate solution for 15 minutes, and then apply a small amount of potassium permanganate crystal powder to the diseased turtle's lesions.

(4), overwintering death disease.

Etiology: Mostly due to lack of nutrition before wintering, the body is so weak that it cannot resist the long-term cold attack and die. A small number of postpartum parent turtles and turtles with chronic diseases died due to overwintering. Symptoms: Before wintering, the tortoise body was thin and the muscles were shriveled. Picking up the sick tortoise felt very light. Often floats on the surface of the water and does not move. Prevention and control methods: In the southern region, starting from July to August every year, especially after the parent turtles stop laying eggs, gradually strengthen the feeding of concentrated feeds such as meat, and add appropriate amounts of trace elements to restore the turtle's physique and store enough nutrients for the winter. Sick turtles should be cured as soon as possible; juvenile turtles should take certain insulation measures for winter.

(5) Internal and external parasites.

Etiology: Mostly due to long-term habitation in water, ticks, fleas, trypanosomes, etc. parasitize on the surface or internal organs of turtles. Symptoms: There are worms and weight loss on the surface of the turtle. Prevention and control methods: Immediately remove the surface worms, soak them in copper sulfate solution (0.5 mg/L) for 30 minutes, and feed the intestinal worms once every six months.

[Editor's Comment]

From the current practice, the red-eared turtle has strong disease resistance, as long as the early introduction and disease prevention measures are done well , adopt a reasonable feeding mode, find that the diseased turtles are isolated in time and actively treated, which will achieve better results. In addition, it should be noted that the turtles have the opportunity to be directly exposed to sunlight, and the breeding box can be placed on the balcony or window sill. If this is not possible, the hatchlings must be exposed to ultraviolet rays once or twice a week for about three to five minutes each time. . The UV light should not be too close to the turtle, so as not to cause damage due to excessive light. Sunlight is still best, but care should be taken that the container glass used does not filter out the required ultraviolet rays. The hatchlings can be kept on the balcony throughout the summer. In order to prevent being taken away, the box can be covered with a net. It is absolutely necessary to prevent the Brazilian tortoise from climbing out of the breeding box, otherwise, you will find the "mummy" electric heater line under the bed or in a corner, which may even be a bridge for the Brazilian tortoise to escape, because the Brazilian tortoise is very good at climbing. clever.  



3. Characteristics of the golden turtle

The head of the golden glans is smooth without scales, the tympanic membrane is obvious and round; Narrow and long, the first vertebral plate is pentagonal, the fifth is fan-shaped, and the remaining 3 are triangular, 4 on each side of the rib and 11 on each side of the angular plate; the carapace is brown, with three prominent black vertical lines. The line, with a bulge in the middle, is the most obvious and longest, so it is also called Chuanzi back turtle; the plastron is black, and its edge is yellow; the carapace and the plastron are connected by ligaments on both sides, and the plate (plastron) In order to be transverse, the plastron is also connected by a transverse ligament between the chest and abdominal angle plates, so it is also called a broken plate turtle; the fingers and toes are webbed; the tail is short and pointed. The hard skin around the edge of the carapace is kumquat yellow, so it is also called the red edged turtle.

1, Construction of Turtle Pond

According to the type of turtle pond, underground type and water and land type can be selected. Because the latter is convenient in management, it is easier to accept. It consists of ponds, land, spawning ponds, and turtle nests. The turtle nest must be shaded, and it must be easy to escape, prevent enemy damage, and be easy to change and wash. The stocking density of adult turtles is about 20 per square meter, and the water depth is about 10 centimeters.

2, Feed delivery requirements

According to the omnivorous habit of the turtle, which is mainly carnivorous, use artificial compound feed Can make money turtle grow fast. The daily intake is 3-5% of the turtle's body weight, and it is fed in 1-2 times. Animal feeds include: fish and shrimp, shrimp, frogs, lean pork, chicken, duck, eggs, raw and cooked bones, animal offal, earthworms, etc. Plant-based feeds include: peanut cake, potato, sweet potato, rice, corn, flour, vegetable leaves, fruits and so on. The raw materials with animal and plant feed ratio of 7:3 or 6:4 are minced by a meat grinder to make artificial compound feed containing about 35%-40% protein for feeding. Reasonable content of protein, phosphorus, calcium and sodium in the feed is the key to rapid growth.

3, Daily management of turtles

Due to intensive artificial rearing, daily management is very important, and the quality of management is The key to successful farming. Especially water temperature, water quality, feed, sunshine, disease control. The water temperature should be kept at about 28-32 ℃ as much as possible, the turtle body and turtle pond should be cleaned every day, and the sunbathing should be strengthened.

4, Disease prevention

The money turtle has strong disease resistance, but it is easy to get sick if it is not properly raised in captivity , once the disease is difficult to detect and treat. So on weekdays, you should observe the turtle's dynamics, appetite and feces more. The drugs used in baits and medicated baths include oxytetracycline, potassium permanganate, penicillin, and dysentery. Captive-bred turtles will no longer have the habit of being afraid of people. When you grab it and feed it, they will crane their necks to look at you. If it is found that the turtle has shrinking head, refuses to eat, abnormal feces, light body or often soaking in water, it should be suspected whether it has gastrointestinal disease, esophagitis, parasitic disease, saprolegnia, etc., and should be given medicine or intramuscular injection in time.

5, breeding of turtles

The ratio of male to female tortoises is 1:3 is more reasonable. The golden turtle will lay eggs every year after sexual maturity, and the egg-laying time is from April to September of the lunar calendar. 1-8 eggs are laid each time, and the turtles that are properly raised in captivity are more than 4-6 eggs per time. Some turtles can lay eggs twice a year. If the eggs are few or not laid, it is mostly because of unreasonable feed or light. Not enough. The author's practice has proved that egg production and fertilization rate are determined by feed, water quality, water temperature and light. The hatching rate is determined by the hatching technology, and artificial hatching is the best way. Regardless of whether it is hatched with electricity or with water, it should be managed frequently to prevent hypoxia, mold and egg burning. Using constant temperature incubation for about 60-75 days, the turtle seedlings can break out of their shells.

[Editor's Comments]

The money turtle is omnivorous. They like to live in granite caves or mud caves near the water, dive into the bottom of the water after being frightened, and often go to mountain streams or wet places to feed on various aquatic animals. In nature, it mainly preys on aquatic animals such as snails, fish, shrimps, tadpoles, etc., and also eats young mice, small fish, shrimps, snails, young frogs, scarabs, earthworms, snails and fly maggots, and sometimes eats pumpkins and bananas. And plant stems, leaves, seeds. Under artificial feeding conditions, they like to eat animal offal, earthworms, lean meat, small fish and mixed feed.

The golden tortoise grows slowly. Generally, the gonads mature and start mating when they are over 6 years old. Mature turtles are active and feeding frequently from May to October; they start mating in the early morning or evening of autumn (September to October) when the temperature is around 20 to 25 °C. In June of the following year, when the water temperature rises to about 25°C, the female turtle starts to lay eggs, and the egg laying lasts until the end of July or the beginning of August. The whole period will lay 3 to 4 times, with 3 to 4 eggs each time. Before laying eggs, female tortoises choose shallow sand piles with soft soil or dig holes under the roots of trees and grasses, then lay eggs in the holes, cover the holes with sand, and press them down with their bodies before leaving. Under natural conditions, the hatching of turtle eggs is easily affected by external natural conditions such as climate, light, natural enemies and other factors, so the incubation time is long and the hatching rate is low.



Brazilian turtle


2. Prevention and control of red-eared turtle diseases

1. Prevention of turtle diseases The occurrence of the disease is generally related to the environment, the turtle body itself, feed, and pathogens.

Maintaining a good environment, such as water quality that meets breeding requirements, quiet surroundings, and reasonable and scientific turtle habitat, can reduce the occurrence of turtle diseases. In the same way, when introducing seeds, plant seeds nearby, avoid long-distance transportation, and avoid importing seeds from the market or from farmers who are unfamiliar with the current breeding situation. Cutting off the way the pathogen spreads to healthy turtles, etc., can all play a preventive role.

2. Treatment

(1), white eye disease.

Etiology: Due to the high density of artificial breeding, which causes trauma or deterioration of water quality, the juvenile and young turtles are more susceptible to white eye disease. Symptoms: The eyes of the diseased turtle are inflamed and congested, gradually turning gray and swollen, the cornea and surrounding areas are eroded due to inflammation, and the outside of the eyeball is covered by a layer of white secretions. After the onset of the tortoise, the forelimbs are often used to rub the eyes, and they cannot eat food. Prevention and control methods: strengthen feeding and management, and focus on disinfection. Strictly disinfect turtles and turtle-raising water and tableware; strengthen the nutritional content of turtle feed and enhance turtle disease resistance. The diseased turtle was soaked in 40ppm erythromycin solution for 60 minutes; the eye of the diseased turtle was smeared with chlortetracycline eye ointment.

(2), gastroenteritis.

Etiology: Most of the turtles are sick due to the deterioration of feed or the contamination of food utensils and water by Escherichia coli and other bacteria. Symptoms: The diseased tortoise has dull eyes, no luster, thin body, does not like to crawl, likes to drink water, has diarrhea, and has snot-like feces. Prevention and control methods: improve water quality, keep water fresh, feed fresh feed, and strictly disinfect tableware. The diseased turtles were soaked in 30ppm erythromycin solution for 60 minutes, then mixed with appropriate amount of oxytetracycline in the feed to feed the diseased turtles.

(3), Nail rot.

Etiology: After the carapace is damaged, bacteria invade the wound and cause the carapace to rot. Symptoms: The surface carapace rots, or a cave is formed or even muscles are visible, no food, and little movement. Control method: soak the diseased turtle with 40ppm potassium permanganate solution for 15 minutes, and then apply a small amount of potassium permanganate crystal powder to the diseased turtle's lesions.

(4), overwintering death disease.

Etiology: Mostly due to lack of nutrition before wintering, the body is so weak that it cannot resist the long-term cold attack and die. A small number of postpartum parent turtles and turtles with chronic diseases died due to overwintering. Symptoms: Before wintering, the tortoise body was thin and the muscles were shriveled. Picking up the sick tortoise felt very light. Often floats on the surface of the water and does not move. Prevention and control methods: In the southern region, starting from July to August every year, especially after the parent turtles stop laying eggs, gradually strengthen the feeding of concentrated feeds such as meat, and add appropriate amounts of trace elements to restore the turtle's physique and store enough nutrients for the winter. Sick turtles should be cured as soon as possible; juvenile turtles should take certain insulation measures for winter.

(5) Internal and external parasites.

Etiology: Mostly due to long-term habitation in water, ticks, fleas, trypanosomes, etc. parasitize on the surface or internal organs of turtles. Symptoms: There are worms and weight loss on the surface of the turtle. Prevention and control methods: Immediately remove the surface worms, soak them in copper sulfate solution (0.5 mg/L) for 30 minutes, and feed the intestinal worms once every six months.

[Editor's Comment]

From the current practice, the red-eared turtle has strong disease resistance, as long as the early introduction and disease prevention measures are done well , adopt a reasonable feeding mode, find that the diseased turtles are isolated in time and actively treated, which will achieve better results. In addition, it should be noted that the turtles have the opportunity to be directly exposed to sunlight, and the breeding box can be placed on the balcony or window sill. If this is not possible, the hatchlings must be exposed to ultraviolet rays once or twice a week for about three to five minutes each time. . The UV light should not be too close to the turtle, so as not to cause damage due to excessive light. Sunlight is still best, but care should be taken that the container glass used does not filter out the required ultraviolet rays. The hatchlings can be kept on the balcony throughout the summer. In order to prevent being taken away, the box can be covered with a net. It is absolutely necessary to prevent the Brazilian tortoise from climbing out of the breeding box, otherwise, you will find the "mummy" electric heater line under the bed or in a corner, which may even be a bridge for the Brazilian tortoise to escape, because the Brazilian tortoise is very good at climbing. clever.